|M Marini Caffe|
M Marini Caffe
Caviar, Champagne, Caffe
M Marini Caffe is unashamedly a place to be seen. Set on the concourse of the third tower in KLCC, between lush labels such as Cartier and Armani, there’s nothing secretive about it. This grand opulent habitat is a nest for the best dressed, perfectly manicured, and most magnificent flock in Kuala Lumpur. Lavishly decorated and serving nothing but the finest caviar, champagne and cuisine money can buy, it gets The Yum List award for the Swankiest Café in KL.
Marble topped tables supported by dark wooden frames are bordered with Victorian style upholstered chairs and simply dressed with glass vases of delicate floral arrangements. Life-size sculptures add intrigue to the compact space and a backdrop of a picturesque canal scene brings the beauty of Venice to the dining table.
Candelabras rise from the white marble bar where fresh items of extravagance can be gawked at before making a selection. Crustaceans, caviar and other “frutti di mare” are on ice, baring their glamour in the hope of being the next chosen. This is where we begin our journey through a snippet of M Marini Caffe’s menu.
From the Crustacean Bar comes a combination of Fresh Crevettes (shrimp) and Irish Oysters (RM98++). A trio of sauces supplies three distinct intensities in savor from tart to creamy. Our favourite has the most tang and the prettiest colour - Raspberry and Shallots – and goes wonderfully with the plump oysters. The Japanese Cocktail Dressing adds a level of creaminess to the condiments with finely chopped onion, yoghurt, chili, paprika, mayonnaise and vinegar perfectly see-sawing between sharp and creamy. The third sauce, Aurora is the richest and matches best with the shrimp – Worcestershire sauce, tomato ketchup and mayonnaise blend faultlessly in this classic.
|Crevettes and Oysters|
Tuna Tartar (RM68++), from the Crudo (raw) menu is served with a special yuzu sauce, salmon caviar, ripe avocado, soy sauce, olive oil, salt and pepper. Beautiful bold presentation sees the dish arrive on a giant fan shell atop a bowl of ice. A de-capped quail egg and a fabric wrapped half lemon await to be added by our waiter tableside, ensuring the freshest serving. This is a wonderful dish and crisp micro-greens serve to enhance the naturally vibrant flavours.
The Small Fillers menu lists a number of light bites. Capellini Sevruga Caviar (RM228++) with oyster and truffle oil, chives and crème fraiche is meant for enjoying slowly. We drag out each forkful, trying to make the flavours last in one of the most costly pasta dishes we’ve ever consumed. The delicate strands of slim capellini provide an elegant base, allowing the dominating flavours of the land and sea to shine. Sevruga caviar makes the top three list of the most expensive varieties in the world, hence our desire to savor every egg. A pearly silver hue reflects off the tiny balls and their salty finish ensure only a few are needed to supply flavour to the entire dish.
|Capellini Sevruga Caviar|
Petuna Ocean Trout (RM68++) is one of the favourites in the Secondi (main) section. This fish, from the chilly waters of southern Tasmania, is branded as the “Wagyu of the Sea.” Plentiful marbling between the bold coral flesh results in a rich creamy mouthfeel. The clean flavour requires a delicate cooking technique to maintain its purity and preserve moisture. Sealed in a plastic bag and slowly cooked, sous-vide, at precisely 63 degrees Celsius for seven minutes, brings the desired outcome. The crisp fennel salad accompaniment is wonderful - strung with tiny cubes of potato, French bean slices and cherry tomato halves. Plated splendidly on an earthy toned rectangular ceramic, smooth grey rocks are stacked at either end and, bright petite balls of ocean trout caviar add a splash of colour to the top and a juicy burst in the mouth.
|Petuna Ocean Trout|
We end our food indulgence with a classic from the Dolci – Sweets section, a traditional Tiramisu (RM22++). Savoiardi biscuits are soaked in espresso, generously coated with mascarpone and dusted with cacao powder. A rainbow of fresh berries liven the white plating and a brush stroke of thick chocolate sauce makes deliciously edible adornment.
Done with food, but still a little thirsty we opt for two cocktails – a bubbly based number for hubby and, a coffee founded finish for me. Just in Thyme (RM48++) is introduced in a tall Champagne glass filled with bubbly, grapefruit juice, peach puree, in-house made thyme syrup and festooned with a sprig of fresh herbs. Unexpectedly we find the fruity additions don’t overpower the Champagne and decide it a well-balanced and very pleasant beverage. Amore (RM48++) combines Baileys, espresso, soya milk and a touch of truffle oil in a martini glass. Three coffee beans float on top and the truffle and soy establish an earthy subtlety against the coffee foundation.
|M Marini Caffe Cocktails - Just in Thyme and Bailey's Coffee|
Besides seafood, M Marini Caffe also serves up a notable breakfast – but more on that another time. High Tea is a further option served daily from 3pm – 5pm including a three-tiered tray of sweets and savouries and, a pot of tea, for RM48++ per person. We’ve sampled a set and found the Orange Cheesecake to be our most favoured item.
|Macaron from the High Tea Set|
All in all, M Marini Caffe is surprisingly not as expensive as the word on the street would have you believe. Yes, there are dishes for the fat-walleted, but there are also reasonably priced items too. We consider it an elegant location for a refined afternoon with a few close friends or your partner.
Reasons to visit: Just in Thyme (Champagne cocktail); Petuna Ocean Trout; Tuna Tartar; Tiramisu; Orange Cheesecake.
M Marini Caffe
LC-G04 Ground Floor
50088 Kuala Lumpur
+6 03 2386 6030
+6 017 688 0167